![4l60e shift kit that requires drilling valve body passage 4l60e shift kit that requires drilling valve body passage](http://www.cascadetransmissionparts.com/images/products/detail/4f140_700p.jpg)
If you’re careful you can drop it with all seven checkballs in place. You can either slide the valve from its bore or unlink it at its connector.
4l60e shift kit that requires drilling valve body passage manual#
As you’re dropping the valve body you need to disconnect the manual valve (red arrow in pic). Some of these pics are from one I did while it was out of the vehicle, so it’s a little easier. That way you can take out all the others and be holding it while it drops. If you’re doing this with the transmission in the vehicle, I usually leave the middle bolt for the very end. It doesn’t matter as it’s coming down with the valve body anyway. You can take off the pressure manifold switch like I did or leave it. My shift kit came with a detailed view of exactly where the bolts go so I double checked to make sure I kept them in the same spots (better safe than sorry). If you are in doubt of where the correct length bolts go, look it up. You will lock up the transmission if you put a long bolt in a short bolt position. I repeat, do not mess up which bolts go where. I made myself a piece of thin foam that I could push the bolts into to keep them in order. There are several of them and they are different lengths. Now you’re ready to start removing bolts. The TCC solenoid might reach the ground depending on how high you have it jacked up, so put something under it to keep it clean. You can now bring the wiring harness down. Two bolts (arrows in pic) hold it in and it can be pulled from its bore. I repeat, it should remain attached to the wiring harness. The torque converter clutch solenoid (NOT the PWM solenoid- funny how they give them such close names) is a physical part of the wiring harness and must be removed. Use a pick to pull out the clip holding the TCC PWM solenoid in place then remove the solenoid from its bore (arrow in pic). Beginning from the plug leading to the top of the transmission, unplug the force motor, both shift solenoids, the pressure manifold switch, the 3-2 solenoid, and the torque converter clutch PWM solenoid. Now you’re ready to remove the wiring harness. I’m glad I caught this now instead of when it finally completely fell apart. You can see it’s literally crumbling around the base and there are at least a couple chunks of plastic floating around in there.
![4l60e shift kit that requires drilling valve body passage 4l60e shift kit that requires drilling valve body passage](https://i0.wp.com/streettechmag.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/torqueflite-rebuild-MCE-727_24.jpg)
Keep these aside (I like to put stuff in plastic sandwich baggies as I’m taking it apart). It will have three bolts and one will be longer than the other two. This will house one of the plastic pistons that should be replaced. Now you can remove one of the accumulators (arrow in pic). I didn’t have to worry about it because I took the wiring harness down carefully and put it back up the same way to the connector that lied closest to each solenoid was plugged in. I believe these are the only two plugs that interchange and in the case that the wiring gets bent up you want to be able to tell them apart. Take notes or pictures of the coloring of the wires going to the shift solenoids (arrows in pic). It’s ok, take it step by step and you’ll be fine. You’re probably now pretty anxious while looking at all the wires, solenoids, and whatnot. Let it drip for 10 or 15 minutes unless you love getting ATF in your eyes/hair/beard. Then remove the filter and leave it in the bucket of fluid. That way it’ll more or less funnel it into the bucket. I like to remove all the bolts except for those in the corners and then select one corner to drop lower than the others. Have a large bucket ready to catch the fluid that will inevitably drip all over you. ¼” torque wrench (needs to have a range between 40 and 96 inch-lbsĪny transmission parts you plan on replacing (accumulator pistons, separator plate, separator plate gaskets, shift kit, etc.) I listed the parts that I used over at įirst remove the transmission pan.